TACKLING THE COBRA
What’s more Spanish than British
cycling superstar, Bradley Wiggins? Paella? Tapas? Possibly?
But for many keen cyclists who come to
the beautiful island of Mallorca to turn their pedals, catching a glimpse of
Brad (Sir Brad – sorry), complete with facial hair, is a bigger draw than the Spanish
weather, the majestic Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, or Palma’s imposing
cathedral.
The island, to coin a phrase which is hackneying
even as you read it, has become a magnet (I dislike using ‘Mecca’), for the
cycling fraternity. That includes professional outfits like Wiggins’s (erstwhile), Team
Sky, who use Mallorca’s unclogged roads for off-season training, and amateurs,
who like a bit of sunshine with their self-induced suffering.
That’s how I found myself on the island
in June 2014, heading for the Ponent Mar Hotel in Palmanova – just a few
kilometres along the coast from Palma itself. The hotel is the base for Stephen
Roche Cycling Holidays and Training Camps.
You may have heard of Mr Roche - along
with Sean Kelly (who also has a business on the island). He’s done more than
most to make ‘pro’ cycling a recognised sport in Ireland.
His most famous exploits were crammed
into a single year – 1987. As if winning the World Championship road race
wasn’t enough, he preceded that feat by topping the podium in the Giro (Tour of
Italy), which for him had resembled a hostile environment. And to kick it all
off, he not only prevailed in the ’87 Tour de France, he provided cycling fans
with one of Le Tour’s most celebrated moments when he hauled himself,
wraith-like, through the mist at La Plagne, to stay in contention when everyone
had written him off.
The rainbow, pink and yellow jerseys he
won are on display in the Stephen Roche office in the hotel. And it’s from this
nerve centre that the staff devise the guided rides which prompt clients from
around the globe to come back for more, again and again.
Like any activity holiday, there’s no
lounging around. We all had to be up for breakfast at 7.30 am – which just gave
us time to check the day’s route map, placed on each dining table and get down
to the basement bike garage in time for the briefing. Pedals started turning at
0900, as our ride captains led us off, split into our 4 groups, based on
ability and speed.
Most rides involved some climbing. The
rewards were obvious. Café stops in hilltop settlements like Valldemossa and
Galilea, make all that grinding up hill more than worth it.
A typical guided ride has you back in
the hotel by about 2 pm. But if you fancy an entire day in the saddle there’s
the famed Sa Calobra. This is the
ultimate playground of the pro bike riders on the island. It’s a snaking,
26-hair-pinned, 10km strip of Tarmac which plunges almost 700m down to the
coast and the road’s end. The only way out is to turn and cycle back up.
No self-respecting, serious, cyclist
should visit Mallorca without tackling the ‘Cobra’.
Banish from you mind, thoughts of
Magaluf, rowdy stag parties, drunken beach shenanigans and waking up with a chronic hangover. That
Mallorca does exist – as witnessed by the prevalence of steak and kidney pie as
top menu choice, over Spanish delicacies - but seeing the island on two wheels is
a calm and collected way of experiencing its considerable charms.
My only regret is that I never did
catch a glimpse of Wiggo (Sir Wiggo’). Or maybe he was going so fast when he
streaked passed me, that I blinked and missed him.
Published in Cara magazine 2016
Postscript: On one of our more recent visits in May 2017, Sir Brad actually cycled past us heading for the centre of Pollenca old town.
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